Author: Michael

The Perfect Way To Celebrate Our 45th Anniversary

We decided a safari was the perfect way to celebrate our 45th anniversary. We have wanted to go to Africa for years but for a variety of reasons never got around to it. We quickly found out that deciding to go was the easy part – choosing a company to travel with was an almost overwhelming problem. We are avid photographers – amateur, but serious. We are also experienced travelers – but Africa was an entirely different concept for us. We wanted a tour company that would handle a lot of things for us but give us flexibility, allow us go where we wanted to safely, but more than anything, go at our own pace. After a lot of research, we chose Africa Dream Safaris. After spending 11 days in Africa and watching other tour operators, we clearly made the right choice.

The first step was determining where and when to go. After several discussions with Sharon Lyon, we learned that where we went depended on when – and vice versa. She did an incredible job of helping us match up what we wanted to experience and when we could go with where to schedule our trip. So we booked it and then waited for the big adventure to start.

When we arrived in Tanzania, we were met by an ADS representative and for the rest of our time in Africa we were never without someone to help us. After a brief stay in Arusha, we flew into a camp by the Mara River and our adventure began. We met our driver/guide for the next 10 days, Omary. He turned out to be an amazing match for us and was a significant reason for our trip’s phenomenal success. Not only did he have incredible knowledge of the Serengeti, the wildlife and the plants but he had a great feel for lighting, backdrops, scenery, etc. He even had a good sense of humor – by the second day we had established our “missions” for the trip – including giving him one of a “mature male lion on a rock”. This became our quest – but by day 8 he had delivered! He told us on day one we were family – by the end of the trip we knew he really meant it.

We elected to stay in “bush camps”, preferring that to being in a lodge. In every camp, we were met on arrival by the staff with warm facecloths and drinks. In each camp we had comfortable accommodations – whether part of a permanent camp or a tent on the ground. The service we received rivaled many 5 star European destinations we have experienced. And every person we met seemed genuinely interested in our comfort, safety and ensuring we enjoyed the trip and the accommodations.

And last, but not least, was the Serengeti. We were totally unprepared for the experience. By the second day, we decided that if we had to end the trip, our expectations would have been exceeded. The enormous variety and quantity of wildlife was astounding. We saw dozens of lions, numerous cheetahs, hundreds of elephants and giraffes – the list goes on. We saw the wildebeest crossing the Mara River (one of Omary’s missions). We had lunch on a Kopje overlooking a migration of zebra a mile wide stretching from one horizon to the other. We had a whole pride of lions walk within feet of our truck. We watched a leopard descend from a tree and disappear in the grass only to reappear right by our truck. The flexibility we had allowed us to do this; other tour operators had left when the leopard didn’t move. The list goes on and on.

This was a truly memorable experience. We wanted to make it memorable since we would only be able to do this once and already we are figuring out how to do it “one moretime” .

Gary and Nancy Prade
Castle Rock, Colorado
Safari Dates: November 6, 2012 to November 16, 2012

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Extraordinary October – Safari Pictures of the Month

As October draws to a close, I thought it would be interesting to compile a couple of the more remarkable pictures we received this month from returning safari guests. I have included some of the more unique shots received or the ones that just plain made me smile. All pictures below were taken while on safari with African Dream Safaris during October 2012.

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We Were Treated Like VIP’s

What can we say that has not been said by other ADS guests? From the moment we arrived until our sad goodbyes at the airport, we were treated like VIP’s.

One can see many animals on safari but it’s the guide that makes the trip. Our guide, Elson, was wonderful. His ability to spot the animals, lying under the tree or hiding in grass, was incredible. One member of our family was interested in birds and Elson knew the names of all of them. During the 9 days she was able to spot almost 100 different species. He had a great sense of humor as well, especially when we pointed out our favorite animal, the Serengeti Stickebeest! We saw them everywhere.

We saw several crossings at the Mara River. The wildebeests came down to the water and back up the bank, again and again, before they finally crossed. One person described their bellowing as “yes”, “no”, “yes”, “no”! It seemed as if the entire migration was outside our tent the night we spent at Lemala Mara River Camp. What a great way to start our safari.

Lions and cubs, elephants and babies, cheetahs, leopards, you name it we saw them, the big 5 and our own “small 5”. We were also lucky enough to spot a pack of 10 African Hunting Dogs, 2 Serval cats and a Bush Baby.

We also visited the FAME hospital and saw what wonderful work Dr. Frank and Susan are doing there. We were so impressed we are considering going back to volunteer there.

When we planned our safari we thought it would be a once in a lifetime event, but it was so fabulous that we can’t wait to go back again. Tanzania is truly a magical place.

Charles and Debbie Pitman
Safari Dates: October 1st to October 11th, 2012
Silverthorne, Colorado

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We Are Forever Changed

Hello Lynn,

We are pretty-much back to normal here in Santa Fe, but I have to say that we are forever changed by our Tanzania experience. We were exceedingly pleased with all aspects of the trip, and your planning proved to be a major factor for the successful logistics and overall magnificence of the trip. By getting us out into the bush [in these really special camps], we were able to experience the wildlife as few others can.

We were particularly grateful to have Pokea as our guide. He is amazingly knowledgeable, and he took us to locations were the action was really happening. His patience [with our unending questions] was very welcome. Pokea is an amazing asset to your company. And of course, the itinerary was second to none.

With the custom aspects of our travel, we were able to focus on our particular interests, and Pokea was more than willing to provide us with outstanding service for our requests. The Ras Nungwi Zanzibar R&R at the end was very special too.

I have attached a few photos that I hope you might like. Please don’t hesitate to count on us if you need an endorsement or recommendation. We have only the highest praise for you and your ADS company! Thank you again.

Ken Apt and Mary Morris
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Safari Dates: September 30, 2012 to October 13, 2012

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Our First Day On Safari Was So Intense

Now that we’ve been back home for a week and back to corporate life, I want to express my thanks to you and Russell for a trip that was beyond our expectations. It is funny to write those words. I had read the letters on your web site and thought not everyone could have such a remarkable experience. I was wrong.

Our first day on safari was so intense with the highlight of watching “the crossing”. I didn’t think the first day could be topped. Again, I was wrong. Each day there was always something new and exciting. We felt so special seeing the wildebeest crossing twice! Then we saw the big five all in one day. The memory of seeing a hyena trotting off from a kill with a leg in his mouth leaving the other two hyenas to fend off the vultures while they got their share is still vivid. Remembering the three young lions stalking our vehicle with curiosity and the baby giraffe with the umbilical cord still attached are memories not soon to be forgotten.

We felt so fortunate to have Russell as our guide. I was amazed at his ability to spot the animals and birds and had the patience for us if we were slow to see them. He also positioned us to get the great camera and video shots. We truly got some great shots worthy of National Geographic (or so we think). Russell seemed so excited to show us his country, the animals, birds, trees, plants and talk about the culture and people. He even knew the constellations! What an asset to ADS to have such a enthusiastic, knowledgeable guide on their staff.

Of course the itinerary was superb with each location a different experience and I have to thank you for your help in putting this together. I waited until the end to see if I could pick a favorite location since they were all wonderful. I have to admit I loved Swala. The male lion at 3:30AM proclaiming his territory 30 feet from our tent was certainly one of the highlights I’ll never forget. Oh yes, and having to shoo the impala from our path to get to our tent is not an everyday event.

I can only hope to return to Africa one day. Until then. Asante sanna.

Christine McKenzie
Plano, Texas
Trip Dates: September 12th to September 22nd, 2012

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We counted 17 lions in one pride!

Landed at the airstrip and 2 hours later we’ve got the Wildebeest migration in full swing. The next day, our first full day, we get Lion and Leopard. The next photo is a view from our patio. I know it’s a tent, but I’ve stayed in a lot of hotel rooms that were miserable by comparison. I’ve also drank in a lot of bars that could not match the quality and selection of the drinks at Buffalo Springs. A very pleasant camp run by wonderful people, and a lovely area, we wished we could stay another day.

Nice lion action the next day. Note the nursing cub. No problem finding Cape Buffalo. These two were part of a large herd. Somewhere under that “flock” of vultures is a carcass of some kind. A little later we found another carcass that the lions were not done with yet. We counted 17 lions, I think. Dana’s favorite was the Giraffes.

A big buck Impala with his harem. Hunter decides to “get down” with the Masai. According to Ally, our guide, he does not see African Wild Dogs even once a year. You don’t see Elephants next to the average swimming poor. Treetops, another magical place. Cheetahs! Another uncommon sighting.

Hope you like the photos as much as I loved my safari!

Joe Whittington
Hampton Falls, New Hampshire
Safari Dates: October 3, 2012 to October 11, 2012

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A private safari with ADS makes for a more intimate, enjoyable experience.

My wife and I have just returned from our safari and are still basking in the glory and spectacle that is Tanzania. Our trip from October 9, 2012 through October 17, 2012 coordinated and planned by ADS was the most memorable and rewarding trip thus far in our lives.

From a game viewing standpoint, our trip greatly exceeded our expectations. Within minutes of landing at Kogatende Airport our guide, Pokea, had placed us in a location where we could view multiple crossings of the Mara River by massive populations of both wildebeest and zebra. Thankfully, the pressure was off and then the viewing of the Great Migration could be scratched off my wife’s bucket list. By the end of the first day, my wife and I were incredulous as to the amount and variation of species we had the privilege of viewing. Even more incredulous was the fact that the next day’s game viewing was more spectacular than the previous day. This scenario played out through the duration of our safari. My only hope is the visual images we experienced would be captured by our photographic efforts.

Again, I cannot express the magnitude beauty, and grace of these animals in their natural procession and habitat. Just the ability to view numerous prides of lions with suckling cubs, cheetahs with cubs, leopards feeding on a kill in an acacia tree, herds of elephants with young as well as giraffes, hippos, buffalo, black rhino, assorted and varied types of antelope all made for an experience that was beyond belief.

It was a veritable Noah’s Ark. In addition to the more publicized animals, we had the good fortune to see some of the harder to see species such as the martial eagle lunching on a monitor lizard, Egyptian vulture, side striped jackal, and serval cat.

The logistics and arrangements made by ADS were impeccable accomplished without the slightest error or delay. Everything from customs and visa clearance at JRO airport, ADS meet and greet staff, interval flights, and drop off at JRO airport at the conclusion of our journey was seamless and timely. The ADS staff and staff at the lodges we stayed were nothing short of perfection. Our guide was extremely knowledgeable of all flora and fauna and displayed a great respect for nature and Tanzanian environment. All lodge staff could not do enough to make our stay the best we could experience.

In conclusion, anyone contemplating an African safari should look no further than ADS. Their contact staff and people on the ground in Tanzania were nothing short of remarkable and provide you the means for a trip of a lifetime. There is more than one aspect of ADS that I have yet to reveal, saving the best for last so to speak: all ADS safaris are private (unless you are traveling with friends). This means you have a well equipped and comfortable vehicle plus knowledgeable and conscientious guide to yourselves. That is to say, you are not sharing the vehicle with anyone! This makes for a much more intimate, enjoyable experience.

Again, thanks for everything Sharon & ADS, especially the end of the trip cake that was presented to us on our final night at Lion’s Paw.

Sincerely,

Randy and Rhonda Soth
Hallandale, Florida
Safari Dates: October 9, 2012 through October 17, 2012

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ADS Trip to Tanzania

After a few weeks of daydreaming of Africa and reviewing photos, we are finally settled back into our daily routines. We had the most wonderful and life-enriching safari organized by Africa Dream Safaris (ADS). It was, with no doubt, the best trip we have ever had in our lives. With less than a year of advance planning with Sharon Lyon of ADS, our trip came together without a single hitch or even the slightest problem. ADS delivered on every aspect of trip they said they would. Sharon provided excellent advice and discussed various last minute issues prior to our departure. She was always helpful and courteous.

Our safari began with flawless flights and entry into Tanzania. We had an extra day for shopping and night lodging. With a short flight to the Mara River – Kogatende Airstrip, we met our guide, Anglebert. He had us in the mix of wildebeest, zebras, giraffes, and hippos within fifteen minutes on the road. We cannot say enough positive and good things about Anglebert. We hit it off soon after our arrival and the fun began. He has a keen eye for spotting wildlife and for photography. He was always getting us into great positions for photographs. Besides deftly handling the Landcruiser over some pretty rough terrain, he was insightful about Tanzania’s animals, plants, parks, government, and the like. We came away with a great learning experience, especially with lessons in patience. We had the opportunity to view three spectacular and exciting wildebeest and zebra river crossings on the Mara River thanks to Anglebert.

We stayed at a mix of tent camps, tented lodges and permanent structured lodges during our sixteen days in Tanzania. We would say our best experience was at the ADS private camp, which we wished we had added a couple more nights. All of our camp and lodge accommodations were wonderful and the food and service was delightful. Most notable was the professional manner in which each camp or lodge treated us. Each place we stayed the staff knew our names as we got out of our vehicle. That kind of treatment made us feel truly welcomed! One special event for us was a night at the Crater Lodge when a visiting astronomer put on a show for the folks staying there. He pointed out so many stars, planets and constellations we thought we were back in college.

We tried just about everything ADS had to suggest or offer on this trip from the hot-air balloon safari to a Masai village tour. We had a walking safari with the Masai and a night safari – not at the same time, mind you! We had a private guided tour of the Leakeys’ dig site at Olduvai Gorge, thanks to Anglebert. We visited the F.A.M.E. facility and stopped at a local primary school to give away supplies to the students and teachers. All in all, this trip was rewarding and fulfilling.

Saying we saw many wild animals would be an understatement. Each day, which started at predawn, we were off and within minutes we would be looking at some animal. We took over five thousand photos and still had time to take in each moment of viewing with awe. One day we came upon a female cheetah and her two cubs with no one else around. We watched them watch us. They played all around the Landcruiser for about fifteen minutes before they scurried off. A short time later we came upon a pride of sixteen lions that had just finished eating a kill. Again, we were the only people around to see this event. Everyday, Anglebert was able to get us into a viewing situation that seemed to match or exceed the previous day’s experience. The best event was on our last day as we were leaving Swala Camp. Anglebert spotted a rare African wild dog that led us to a pack of fourteen dogs resting under trees nearby. We watched the dogs for about an hour. There was so much to see, and hear, and smell all the time that the entire experience was worth the cost of the trip. It was just plain magical!

Finally, enough cannot be said about the professional ADS staff with whom we had contact. A special thanks to Emmanuel for getting us about in Arusha. Thanks to Anglebert and Juliette for getting us into the Arusha National Park for a half-day tour before we left Tanzania. For those who are looking or thinking about an African safari experience of a lifetime, we would recommend talking to Sharon Lyon with Africa Dream Safaris.

Steven and Suzanne Olmstead
Cheyenne, Wyoming
Safari Dates: 25 Sept. thru 10 Oct., 2012

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It was Africa, it was a safari and it was a dream come true.

I can’t believe I was really there. We were a group of 6, 4 of us form the US and 2 from Australia. We met 2 years ago on river cruise in Europe so this was a reunion trip for us, 18 months in the making!

Within minutes of leaving the airport we saw impala; within a half hour we saw zebra and giraffes with babies! We woke up the first morning to a giraffe at sunrise, you now those pictures you see in magazines. What an experience see the great migration and the river crossing. We were told there are 1.7 million wildebeest; we think we saw a million of them!

We did a night game drive and couldn’t get enough of the bush babies jumping from tree to tree! We arrived first or maybe second as a vehicle passed us, to the Ngorongoro Crater. There were a lot of animals playing around. We saw 4 of the “Big 5”, only the buffalo was missing. We had the privilege of following 2 black rhinos (we had been lucky to see 2 others in the Serengeti).

Seeing all of the elephants, giraffes and zebras in Tarangire Park was amazing. I read you could see 100-400 elephants a day here. I think we did. At one point one of the people in our group counted 56 of them standing together.

Here we also experienced the love of a mother for her child. We came upon a mother elephant and her baby, separated by the road. The baby was obviously ill and could hardly move. She was trying to get it to cross the road by her. When she saw that we might come between them (we were stopped several meters away) she started to charge us. Wilfred quickly maneuvered the vehicle so we off t he side. She continued in a sideways movement across the road towards her baby not leaving her eyes off of us. We watched as the baby slowly moved across the road and the plain trying to follow the mother to the herd.

Although we never saw a kill we did see the aftermath…the cheetah in a tree eating, and lions eating their take down. We were on safari during the dry season, we were fortunate to have very few other vehicles around; often we were the only one. The camps were wonderful, especially the talking bush showers after a dusty hot day out. Two of the nights we were the only ones at the camps so it was like having experienced 3 private camps instead of one.

Sandy Jacobson
Wallace, North Carolina
Safari Dates: October 15, 2012 to October 25, 2012

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Huge Lion Kill Near Our Home In The Serengeti

We always eagerly await the periodic reports prepared exclusively for Africa Dream Safaris by the on-site field researchers of the Serengeti Lion Project and for good reason. This month’s report was especially thrilling and features the large transect pride (23 lions total) bringing down a buffalo just 150 meters away from the current field researcher’s  (Daniel Rosengren) house located at Seronera in the Central Serengeti. Thanks Daniel for providing us with an excellent report on our favorite lions once again!

Serengeti Lion Report – October 2012

THE TRANSECT PRIDE has been very busy since last time I wrote. In the dry season when the migratory prey like wildebeest and zebra are far away this large woodland pride has to catch other animals. Buffaloes are around all year but being a huge bundle of muscle with horns this is a dangerous challenge to take on. One day another researcher here told me he saw the Transect lions take down a buffalo only a few kilometers from our home. The buffalo fought viciously and managed to launch a lioness high into the air before being brought down and eaten. About a week later I got a report from another researcher that a buffalo had been brought down by the same lions just a kilometer away, just behind the local store. I went there but the carcass was already stripped of meat and there were only a few vultures and a jackal around.

In the morning after they brought down a buffalo in the dry creek just about 150 meters away from our house. We could see and hear the lions from our porch. They stayed there the whole day finishing their meal. There are 23 big lions in this pride but 2 buffaloes in two days is still a lot of food.
About one week after that I woke up at 1 am by a repeated groan. I thought I knew what it was and snuck out to the car. I only had to drive about 50 meters to our neighbor’s house where I found the Transect lions covering a buffalo, still kicking. But the battle was almost over and soon the lions started eating. There was a constant growling from lions trying to get their share. The moon was almost full and bright enough for me to see clearly without a light.

The Transect lions feasting on a buffalo next to the house:

After about an hour the three resident males, The Lohay Trio, came charging in. One of them came running along the car, literally brushing it as it passed just centimeters under my camera lens poking out of the window. The arrival of the males stirred up a chaos with lions scattering in panic. But soon enough they were all back to the carcass again feeding, the sound level of the growling even higher. By dawn only the skeleton remained of the buffalo. In only two weeks time these lions killed and ate at least four buffaloes. They sure haven’t suffered from the lack of prey in the dry season that other prides might.

Next time I write I’m probably going to have more big news from this pride. Lately the adult females have been very secretive, hiding in dens scrub and among the rocks. The last few tries I’ve only located the signal of the collar but not been able to actually see any lion. This can only mean one thing. They are having new cubs. I’m looking forward to seeing the new pride members but at the same time dreading the work it’s going to need. It’s going to take weeks of trying to sex the cubs and get the identifying whisker spots on both sides of the muzzle all while the cubs are running around and mixing in tall grass. The new cubs probably also means that the adults won’t let the now two year old youngsters stay around. So they’ll have to manage on their own now.

Some of the lions in the MAASAI KOPJE PRIDE have been seen more together lately. These are Jezebelle, Kennedy, Mato Keo and Blixten. Cordelle haven’t been seen since October last year and is probably dead. She was like many other lions in this pride very old and it wasn’t unexpected. The two cubs of Mato Keo though are still alive and healthy and recently Kennedy was seen mating with Ou, one of the Loahy Trio males that they share with the Transect Pride. So more members to this pride seem to be on their way.

Another pride that is seen more together again is the members of the CUB VALLEY PRIDE (also known as the Sametu Pride). The reason for this is no doubt because they’re having a baby boom. Valkyrie, Vanilla, Dawn, Twilight, CV91 and CV95 are altogether having 13 cubs. While Dawn and Twilight stay on their own and are rarely seen the rest can often be seen around the Sametu Kopjes and marsh. Last visit out there they were just finishing off a buffalo kill. The four resident males, the Killers, had already stuffed themselves when I arrived and lay panting in the shade with huge bellies. They almost looked like they would produce litters too.

One of the cheeky cubs in the Cub Valley Pride:

THE NAABI PRIDE has survived yet another dry season out in the harsh conditions around the Naabi Hill, all three cubs still alive. They have been venturing far out on the shadeless plains around the hill in search of scarce prey. Porky though, the grandpa of grandpas, have been seen less and less with this pride. I wonder if age is catching up with him and he finds it difficult to tag along with the rest. Every time I see him I rejoice for the fact that he has lived yet another day.

In the beginning of July the SIMBA EAST PRIDE (also known as the Gol Kojes pride) vanished completely. Despite big effort and a lot of time was spent on finding them inside and out of our study area we could not pick up one beep from their radio collar. We had no clue to where they could be. Two months later, they reappeared in the centre of our study area, as if nothing had happened. It was Skvimp and Sarah with their four cubs. Sonia and her two cubs are still missing. We do think they are still around though. But not having a collar she is much more difficult to find on a regular basis. Probably she has chosen to raise her cubs alone since the cubs of Skvimp and Sarah are much bigger and would have a huge advantage in the fight for food.

The Simba East pride re-found:

When lions disappear like this only to reappear again later makes me wonder where they’ve been. At these times I wish we could afford collars with GPS. With those it wouldn’t matter if the lions walked up all the way to Kenya, we’d still know where they were.

Since this pride is back though, they have been hanging around in an area where they never used to be. Instead of roaming around Gol Kopjes or in the nearby Cub Valley, now they have settled on the plains free of trees northeast of the Cub Valley where the sun is merciless. I hope future research will give clues to their disappearing and change of territory.

Last time I wrote I reported that there were six new little members in the MUKOMA GYPSIES PRIDE. Now the number of cubs has grown to ten only one of them is a female. She’ll have to compete for milk and food with nine brothers. If she survives she might grow up to be a very tough female.

The Mukoma Hills and their new cubs quenching their thirst in a ditch by the road:

Lately this pride have been moving slightly north along the Seronera River and often venturing out on the Mukoma Plains, something they rarely did before. This got them to cross roads with the Transect Pride recently and ended in a big battle. It was a battle that we only saw the aftermath of. One of the young Transect males had open wounds on his back and one of the Mukoma Gypsies cubs couldn’t be seen. Considering that both of these prides are very big, 18 and 23 lions, the casualties could have been much worse.

The MAKOMA HILL PRIDE females are still hanging around with the two new males Nisse and Sotis. As a result of that the sub-adults in this pride have been driven off to a life on their own. No male would accept young non-reproductive lions in the pride they’re about to take over. At least the sub-adults were big enough to run away. Smaller cubs would have been killed. Soon we might be able to get acquainted with new cubs in this pride too.

Nyota and Melody from the Mukoma Hill Pride drinking together with Sotis:

THE MAKOMA MISCHIEFS continue to move around a lot and being difficult to track. Lately they have spent a lot of time down in the Sopa Valley and one time they were spotted on top of a ridge near the Sopa Lodge. This is quite far outside our normal study area. But they are all still alive and in good condition.

So these last three months have kept us busy looking for lions running around outside their normal territories and a lot of new cubs have been born for us to give new IDs. In the near future we’re hoping for rains and that the wildebeest migration will arrive. As of writing they are not far away. We’re expecting a lot o new cubs to be born too, especially in the Transect Pride.

ADS is a proud sponsor of the Serengeti Lion Project. Our funding helps to protect lions against diseases such as canine distemper through programs aimed at vaccinating domestic dogs on the periphery of the Serengeti. We are delighted to announce that Africa Dream Safaris was honored with the Tanzania Conservation Award specifically because of our work with the Serengeti Lion Project. This prestigious award is presented by the Minister of Tourism in conjunction with the Tanzania Tourist Board.

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An African Safari For My 60th Birthday

Where to begin…this trip was a gift to my husband for his 60th birthday, but ended up being a gift to me as well. It was to date the best vacation we have ever taken! From the minute we landed in Arusha to the minute we left 12 days later, Africa Dream had every detail well planned out for us.

Our guide, J.P., was the absolute best!! We were fortunate enough to see EVERYTHING! Leopards, Cheetah with her two cubs, Rhino’s, Wild Dogs, many lions, elephant, giraffe, zebra, etc., etc., etc. It was amazing! Also, the accommodations were fantastic!

While staying at Swala Tented Lodge we were walking (with our guide) back to our room one evening and were met by five or six bachelor elephants. On another occasion, we were having our lunch boxes and a monkey, with her baby holding on, jumped on our table and grabbed Phil’s apple and brownie and then took off. Several other monkeys took off after her trying to steal the apple. It was so funny! We are animal lovers and there is nothing like seeing them in their natural environment.

The people of Africa are some of the nicest people we have ever met. They try so hard to make sure everything is perfect and they are so grateful for everything. It was truly a hard place to leave. We also visited villages and were amazed by the culture. My dream job would be to travel around Africa and help plan vacations for others to experience what we experienced. It was truly amazing and we are already talking about our next trip back.

Thank you Africa Dream Safaris and hats off to your amazing staff!

Phil & Melanie Osterhout
Drumright, Oklahoma
Safari Dates: October 8, 2012 to October 18, 2012

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Our Own Bucket List

For the last several years, since the Freeman/Nicholson movie “The Bucket List” many of us have developed our own Bucket List. An African Safari to see the big five finally floated to the top of our collective list last year. Hours of Web research led us to Africa Dream Safaris and Dawn Anderson. Her personal knowledge gained from several Tanzanian safaris gave us a great head start on planning what turned out to be the perfect safari!

From the moment we reached Kilimanjaro we were in the capable hands of an ADS staff member. We breezed through the Tanzanian Visa process well ahead of 95% of the rest of our plane load of visitors. We even beat some of the locals to our land transportation, thanks to the pre-planning by ADS. Less than 90 minutes from wheels down we were being briefed at the Mt. Meru Hotel.

Early the next morning our ADS representative guided us through the Arusha Airport for our internal flight to Kogatende Airport in the north-west corner of Tanzania. By 11 AM we had met our driver/guide, Wilfred Fue. His welcome smile was soon exceeded only by his wealth of knowledge about the animals, plants and geology of Tanzania and their interactions. He had an amazing ability to spot the animals while keeping us on the two track dirt roads, no easy feat. Even with six pairs of eyes, he out spotted us.

Not 5 minutes and 100 yards from the airport, we saw our first hippo. The ohs and ahs from the six of us came naturally. Like submarines they surfaced and submerged silently but gracefully. Moving on we came across our first herd of wildebeest massing to cross the Mara River. A small number, several hundred, did cross before a crocodile interfered with the crossing. Not until we saw a 20 foot crocodile in the flesh did we fully understand what carnivorous creatures they were.

We saw a young elephant who’s trunk was foreshortened. Apparently, poachers/hunters set out snares for small game, but occasionally an elephant trunk is snared. The animal had the strength to break free of the snare, but the line was set and eventually cut off circulation to the trunk below the snare point. With time the lower trunk rotted and eventually was lost. But, of the two elephants we saw with this problem, each had adapted and were feeding without a problem.

All too soon twilight approached and we reached Lamala River Tented Camp. Although this movable camp was our most primitive (our tents had wooden floors, two queen sized beds and an in- suite bathroom), it was also our favorite. Richard, the camp manager, briefed us on safety measures, camp life and schedule, however, his most important message covered the “talking shower.” Camp staff heated water, carried it to our tents, poured it into a container, hoisted it up on a pulley system and then made sure we were ready for our shower. “Was the water warm enough?” “Did we have enough water?” And finally, “Were we done with our shower?” All six of us had camped in the past, but never had we experienced a more interesting shower.
In the morning, Kay said goodbye to her talking shower! We were amazed at the quality and variety of meals we were served, especially after touring the kitchen, which was extremely primitive. Even five lions visiting the lean-to kitchen did not prevent the chefs from preparing a wonderful breakfast for us! No weight loss on this trip!

Day three let us experience two massive crossings! We did not attempt to count the wildebeest, but there must have been well over a hundred thousand jostling for a spot in the crossing. We spent well over an hour watching this amazing sight. In between crossing spurts we watched zebras grazing, giraffes feeding peacefully, got a fleeting look at a leopard, saw an African Fish Eagle, a Hamerkop, an Agama Lizard and the splendid Suberb Starling.

Day four, we game drove to Buffalo Springs Camp, after watching one more massive crossing. As we talked to other trekkers, they were amazed we had witnessed three crossings; they felt happy seeing one. Way to go Wilfred! One of the things we really appreciated at each camp was our arrival welcome. A hot wash cloth to refresh our faces and a cold fruit drink to re-hydrate always made our arrival special.

We learned that vultures feed on carcasses by the easiest means of entry. We witnessed the chief bird with his head well inside the wildebeest, digging for entrails. His partner is working on an eye socket. Eye sockets also provide an easy entry point.

Intermingled in all the wildebeest herds are nearly as many zebras. They travel well together and feed on the same grass. We now understand why these herds are called “nature’s lawn mowers.” They cut an enormous swath through the grass lands as they make their annual migration.

Two lions peacefully stayed near their kill and let us take pictures for several minutes while other vehicles came and went. At about 50 feet our first reaction was apprehension at being so close to these wild creatures, but as they remained peaceful we soon relaxed. It was not very hot, but both animals had a very high respiratory rate, about three times a human rate.

Day five; by now we are beginning to get jaded, the sight of another wildebeest herd does not create the frenzy of picture taking it did a couple days ago. A tribe of velvet monkeys let us pass. They are not spooked by our Land Cruiser, but Wilfred always kills the engine when we stop.

A sight we will never forget is a male lion eating his wildebeest kill. We were close enough to hear the bones crunch and the tearing sound of the flesh. How Wilfred spotted him is still amazing, we would never have seen him.

Back in camp we headed out on our foot game drive. We watched our guide start a fire using elephant dung to our amazement. We also used the Sandpaper leaf to smooth our fingernails as the Maasai do.

Day six was spent game driving south to Mbuzi Mawe Tented Lodge. As we skirted the side of a hill we came across a huge herd of zebras, in the thousands. This was the largest herd of just zebras that we saw on the entire trip. We checked them all to be sure each had a distinct pattern – just like no two snowflakes are the same. One was so soundly asleep in the road Wilfred almost had to use the horn to rouse him. From this high vantage point the landscape for miles was dotted with animals grazing. Amazing!

The Retina Hippo Pool was crowded with these large, docile looking animals. However, as Wilfred informed us, they are vicious if you invade their space. Although they are vegetarians, they will kill any other animal traversing their space. In fact, we understand they kill more people than any other beast of the jungle. Our cameras captured the sight, the sound but not the smell; as one of us said, “Don’t light a match!” with all the methane gas these vegetarians produce.

Tonight we were treated to a Maasai group singing and dancing to our delight. At breakfast the next morning, we had a large baboon look into the dining tent to see what was to eat. Fortunately, he was on the outside of the screen window looking in and soon moved on with the help of the staff.

Day seven; we were in search of cheetahs and leopards. A pair of cheetahs cooperated and posed for pictures within 15 feet of our vehicle. No long range pictures for them. We learned from Wilfred that leopards can carry twice their weight up a tree. The leopard we saw had a gazelle in the tree above his perch. While not twice his weight, it was definitely above him in the tree. He too cooperated in posing face on, or was he checking us out for his next meal? During our bush lunch break at Moru Kopjes we managed to get one more group photo near Gong Rock.

Days eight and nine were spent at Ngorongoro Crater. On our 6 AM game drive, Wilfred had to wake up the park attendant to let us in, but we were the first vehicle into the crater. We did see a couple of black rhinos, albeit from a very long way away. More lions, flamingos, wildebeest, cape buffalos, storks, gazelles, impalas, warthogs and a very pretty Grey-crowned Crane greeted us. We also had time to relax and read a book in the afternoon on our patio overlooking the crater. And let us not forget the dining room ambiance. In the evening we delighted at the Maasai entertainment.

On day ten heading to Tarangire NP we made a brief visit to the Fame Medical Center; soon to open as a hospital in Karatu. The Gustafson’s gave up their medical practice in California to work tirelessly over the past 6 years to open this medical facility, providing desperately needed health care to Tanzanians. They are gems!

For the first time since reaching Kogatende Airport, we were on a paved road heading to Tarangire NP and Swala Tented Camp – our most impressive tented camp. Our goal was to find the elusive tree climbing lions. Once more Wilfred came through for us. At one time we could see five lions in the tree; we watched a young one scamper up the tree without any difficulty. Apparently, as Wilfred informed us, this is a learned behavior only seen in this NP and we got to see it!

Day eleven, our last full game drive day included a stop by a large termite mound. Day twelve; homeward bound. What an amazing experience we had! ADS, as the kids would say, “You rock!” Thanks for a wonderful experience.

David and June Watson, Butch and Kay Raby, Robert and Mary Bicknell
Trip Dates: August 31st to September 12th 2012

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New Bush Reports Direct From Our Driver Guides

Exciting news from Tanzania! We will soon be announcing a new section of our popular ADS Blog which will allow our twenty plus driver-guides to post short reports including wildlife sightings, news and photos on a real time basis. This new forum will also allow guests to ask questions and interact with their favorite guide through the comments section at the bottom of each posting.

We kicked off this new project last week in Arusha with blog training classes. Currently, we have about a dozen digital cameras in operation that the guides can bring along to record any extraordinary wildlife sightings. If all go’s well during our initial test period over the next couple of months, we plan to add additional cameras and perhaps some video devices too!

Please let us know your comments and suggestions for improvement as we move forward with this very exciting project here at ADS. If you haven’t already done so, please join our facebook account as the guide posts will be syndicated onto our facebook page.

Stay tuned!

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And Sure Enough, Across They Started

First of all, we had a fantastic time, and our safari exceeded all expectations, for which we thank you and the rest of your team.

As you know, we flew to Amsterdam on the evening of August 15th and spent the nights of the 16th, 17th and 18th at the Hotel Kraznapolski right smack in the middle of the City, departing for Arusha on the 19th. And, are we glad we did. Not only did we enjoy immensely our visit to Amsterdam, which I had not visited in over 50 years, but we got over our jet lag quite easily and arrived in Arusha quite refreshed. I highly recommend that you advise future clients, who can afford both time and money, to do the same, as it really gave us a leg up on those who flew straight through and were quite fatigued for the first few days of their safari. I only wish we had done the same thing on our return, as the flight through Dar Es Salaam to Amsterdam, the six hour layover, and then the flight to JFK was interminable after departing Swala at 8:00AM.

The meet and greet was efficient, friendly and most helpful. Thanks for Room 602 at the Mount Meru Resort. The executive suite was certainly far more than we need for out first night and the few hours upon our return, but most welcome. A lovely view over the golf course.

I don’t know who selected our guide for us, but it was a stroke of genius. Francis Peter Powell guiding Peter Francis Ryan and Sara Barchilon took some real magical powers. And, Francis was wonderful, always on the lookout, with eyesight not to be believed. and, a most interesting man : well educated, well read, knowledgeable about anything we might encounter on the safari, knowledgeable about Tanzanian and East African history and politics, even up to date on the American political campaign.

Sally had seen the wildebeest migration and the river crossing when she had been in the Serengeti 5 years ago and we did not have any expectation of seeing it this time. But we did. We watched the herd for some time milling about on the other side of the river, sometimes going downriver and sometimes up, but clearly indecisive. So we gave up and headed slowly up river, pretty much following the progress of the animals on the other side of the river. Suddenly, the animals in the lead reversed position and started running rapidly downriver. We had seen them do this before, but we decided to follow one last time, and positioned the vehicle somewhat behind a tree on our side where we could watch what they were doing, but remain unobtrusive. And sure enough, across they started.

Francis called the guides for the other two ADS vehicles in the area to alert them, and we watched undisturbed for several minutes. Unfortunately, it seems that the drivers for other safari operators also listen in, as cars began to arrive from all directions. Soon there must have been at least 30 cars, many of which lined up right at the edge of the river bank, effectively blocking the progress of the wildebeests, who then interrupted their crossing. People were standing in their popups, and some were even standing on top of their vehicles. Many of the wildebeests who had arrived on our side of the river stopped and turned around to go back, apparently realizing that members of their families were missing.

Something should be done to enforce respect for the animals. I am sure the guides know better, but i think they should get some reminding about park etiquette.

We must have seen at least 50 lions – prides up to 17 members, animals eating a kill, lions with cubs, a lion treed by buffalo, lions mating, even elephants mating, which Francis said he had never seen before. This young fellow could not a quite get the job done, which Francis thought might have been because it was his second or third time around. Also, cheetah, leopards on the ground and in a tree, countless zebra and elephants, and the elusive rhino at some distance but clearly visible at a distance in the crater. I don’t think there could have been much we did not see.

All the camps were a success. Lamala River Camp the least, but we both liked the group dining, which I kinda missed at the others as I think we would have better enjoyed comparing experiences. Serena Lodge at the crater is delightful and most comfortable, and we followed your advice and were the first group to enter the crater the following morning.

Swala was truly exceptional in every way. We were in Tent #12 Impala at the very end, and what a treat. We were constantly surrounded with impala, zebra, the occasional elephant, birds galore. Liz and Garth were perfect hosts, especially Liz. One negative. We asked Francis about the accommodations and food for the guides, which he described as among the most meagre of the camps.

Thanks again for a superb safari.

Peter Ryan and Sara Barchilon
New York, NY
Trip Dates: August 19, 2012 to August 28, 2012

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There Is A Sense Of Pride From The Tanzanian People

From the first contact that I had with Lynn to the departure hug with our guide at the conclusion of our first safari the experience with ADS was exceptional and beyond our expectations. I had researched various companies and tours, but when I decided on ADS I was comfortable that we would be well taken care of, as Lynn had assured us we would be. Lynn never hesitated in promptly responding to questions and her thoroughness in providing information was immensely helpful, as we planned for one year this vacation of a lifetime.

That said, no amount of planning can adequately prepare you for what you experience when you immerse yourself into Africa and specifically Tanzania. I used the term “other worldly” several times during our 14 days on safari. What I meant was that there is a closeness you feel to nature and the animals as they watch you from such a close proximity. There is a sense of pride and a gentle spirit that you can feel from the Tanzanian people that is unlike anything you have probably experienced, regardless of how well traveled you might be.

From the moment we stepped off the airplane at Kilimanjaro airport we felt welcome. Lynn had assured us we would have nothing to worry about passing through the visa process and sure enough it was true. As others stood in long lines waiting to be processed, we were done. Our briefing at Mt Meru hotel by the ADS guide Matus was clear and most helpful even though we were pretty bleary eyed by then, having traveled on long flights just to arrive. Our guided tour through Arusha the next day introduced us to the life of the people of Tanzania. Need less to say there are many contrasts to the daily life, as experienced by residents of the western world.

The next day began our adventure in the bush as we flew over the Serengeti to meet our guide Omary with whom we would spend the rest of our time in Africa. From the moment we landed Omary greeted us and we came to enjoy and appreciate his ready smile and immense knowledge. It is said that your trip can be made or broken by the quality of your guide and I couldn’t agree more. Omary had an amazing ability to spot animals and birds. He would identify them for us and provide interesting information about the behavior of the particular breed.

Every day was not only interesting and educational, each day provided little surprises and delights. There was the humorous mating ritual of the ostrich and the day a group of female elephants circled the younger ones to protect them from us. The eldest female charged towards the vehicle. Omary’s respect for these animals was evident when he slowly backed the vehicle up to indicate to the anxious female elephant that we would pose no threat. She became immediately comfortable and turned back to join the herd. We always felt comfortable and well cared for and we couldn’t have been happier with our guide.

Several mornings we rose for several 6:15 sunrise departures on our game drive which allowed us to see such animals as the black rhino. We were the only vehicle for miles in the Ngorongoro Crater. In the Serengeti we were able to see a female cheetah sitting protectively on a termite mound with her two cubs surveying the landscape for any predators that might harm her young.

We went on a night game drive and observed the “hunt” with 17 female lions and 4 cubs as they stalked through the high grass. We sat in the vehicle silently, not 20 feet from three of the lions after they took down the Wildebeast. There was nothing more exhilarating than listening to the labored panting of the three lions as they sat over their kill!

I could go on and on but suffice it to say the days are constructed based upon our agreement with our guide; when we started the day and when you came in. That was not the same for other tours we observed. Many were the times my husband and I commented how fortunate we were as other vehicles would pass, crammed full of people jockeying for the ideal position for a photo. Similarly, we would watch other groups go out for a few hours only to return to camp after a half day and that was the extent of their game drive. Not so with us and we were the richer for it in safari experience.

Our last night in Tarangire National Park we climbed with a guide to the “top of the rock” as they call it and watched the sun set. What a beautiful and peaceful way to conclude a most magnificent safari before traveling back to Arusha for our departure.

Thank you ADS for making this adventure wonderful for us!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bill and Ginger Barthel
Knoxville, Tennessee
Trip Dates: September 5, 2012 to September 18, 2012

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