Posts From October 2012

An African Safari For My 60th Birthday

Where to begin…this trip was a gift to my husband for his 60th birthday, but ended up being a gift to me as well. It was to date the best vacation we have ever taken! From the minute we landed in Arusha to the minute we left 12 days later, Africa Dream had every detail well planned out for us.

Our guide, J.P., was the absolute best!! We were fortunate enough to see EVERYTHING! Leopards, Cheetah with her two cubs, Rhino’s, Wild Dogs, many lions, elephant, giraffe, zebra, etc., etc., etc. It was amazing! Also, the accommodations were fantastic!

While staying at Swala Tented Lodge we were walking (with our guide) back to our room one evening and were met by five or six bachelor elephants. On another occasion, we were having our lunch boxes and a monkey, with her baby holding on, jumped on our table and grabbed Phil’s apple and brownie and then took off. Several other monkeys took off after her trying to steal the apple. It was so funny! We are animal lovers and there is nothing like seeing them in their natural environment.

The people of Africa are some of the nicest people we have ever met. They try so hard to make sure everything is perfect and they are so grateful for everything. It was truly a hard place to leave. We also visited villages and were amazed by the culture. My dream job would be to travel around Africa and help plan vacations for others to experience what we experienced. It was truly amazing and we are already talking about our next trip back.

Thank you Africa Dream Safaris and hats off to your amazing staff!

Phil & Melanie Osterhout
Drumright, Oklahoma
Safari Dates: October 8, 2012 to October 18, 2012

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The Lion Lady’s thoughts – Reverse itineraries

Our ADS company philosophy and founding mission statements govern who we are, what we do and influence the overall quality of our product and our clients experience.

When we established our company we did our due diligence and discovered a niche that was not being accommodated. In utilizing our expertise, the new facilities available such as the scheduled flights and airports etc, we moved the safari business and clients from the archaic ways of the past (which only one very bad road in, no airport or scheduled flights, need to drive in drive out fill all vans with as many people as possible, least expensive way) and we moved into the Present and are prepared for the future as well.

In order to have the true wilderness experience right at the beginning, off the beaten path, utilizing our exclusive game tracks, clients energy is typically higher, when all day game drives are most necessary and most importantly you will be seeing lions, elephants, giraffe, impalas, and possibly cheetah and leopard all in your first couple of hours and days because you will be in premium locations with excellent guides, who are constantly looking for ways to maximize your wildlife viewing and comfort as well. On your last day you will also have as much time on safari game drive as you wish before you head out to Arusha.

Our goal is to give you the best safari packed with wildlife and we do what we do based on our expertise and we simply will not recommend a reverse itinerary as part of our founding mission statement and beliefs.

IF we were to consider doing this, it would dramatically affect and jeopardize the integrity of your safari. It would also drastically negatively affect the quality and quantity of your game viewing. In the long run, you would be unhappy with your ADS safari and we would also be unhappy. Our great reputation would then be soiled by going against our better judgment and our expertise, by doing an inferior itinerary knowing it was not up to our standards of a wildlife intensive safari. I cannot risk our ADS reputation or my reputation and recommend an itinerary or an option that will negatively impact our company.

ADS is not for everyone and we need to continue to stay true to our ADS company philosophy that we all here at ADS believe strongly in.

It also comes down to our potential clients trust and respect of ADS as a whole and trust in our expertise with my personal experience of over 60x’s in the Serengeti.

Asante rafiki
Sharon Lyon
Sharon@africadreamsafaris.com
www.thelionlady.com

 

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Our Own Bucket List

For the last several years, since the Freeman/Nicholson movie “The Bucket List” many of us have developed our own Bucket List. An African Safari to see the big five finally floated to the top of our collective list last year. Hours of Web research led us to Africa Dream Safaris and Dawn Anderson. Her personal knowledge gained from several Tanzanian safaris gave us a great head start on planning what turned out to be the perfect safari!

From the moment we reached Kilimanjaro we were in the capable hands of an ADS staff member. We breezed through the Tanzanian Visa process well ahead of 95% of the rest of our plane load of visitors. We even beat some of the locals to our land transportation, thanks to the pre-planning by ADS. Less than 90 minutes from wheels down we were being briefed at the Mt. Meru Hotel.

Early the next morning our ADS representative guided us through the Arusha Airport for our internal flight to Kogatende Airport in the north-west corner of Tanzania. By 11 AM we had met our driver/guide, Wilfred Fue. His welcome smile was soon exceeded only by his wealth of knowledge about the animals, plants and geology of Tanzania and their interactions. He had an amazing ability to spot the animals while keeping us on the two track dirt roads, no easy feat. Even with six pairs of eyes, he out spotted us.

Not 5 minutes and 100 yards from the airport, we saw our first hippo. The ohs and ahs from the six of us came naturally. Like submarines they surfaced and submerged silently but gracefully. Moving on we came across our first herd of wildebeest massing to cross the Mara River. A small number, several hundred, did cross before a crocodile interfered with the crossing. Not until we saw a 20 foot crocodile in the flesh did we fully understand what carnivorous creatures they were.

We saw a young elephant who’s trunk was foreshortened. Apparently, poachers/hunters set out snares for small game, but occasionally an elephant trunk is snared. The animal had the strength to break free of the snare, but the line was set and eventually cut off circulation to the trunk below the snare point. With time the lower trunk rotted and eventually was lost. But, of the two elephants we saw with this problem, each had adapted and were feeding without a problem.

All too soon twilight approached and we reached Lamala River Tented Camp. Although this movable camp was our most primitive (our tents had wooden floors, two queen sized beds and an in- suite bathroom), it was also our favorite. Richard, the camp manager, briefed us on safety measures, camp life and schedule, however, his most important message covered the “talking shower.” Camp staff heated water, carried it to our tents, poured it into a container, hoisted it up on a pulley system and then made sure we were ready for our shower. “Was the water warm enough?” “Did we have enough water?” And finally, “Were we done with our shower?” All six of us had camped in the past, but never had we experienced a more interesting shower.
In the morning, Kay said goodbye to her talking shower! We were amazed at the quality and variety of meals we were served, especially after touring the kitchen, which was extremely primitive. Even five lions visiting the lean-to kitchen did not prevent the chefs from preparing a wonderful breakfast for us! No weight loss on this trip!

Day three let us experience two massive crossings! We did not attempt to count the wildebeest, but there must have been well over a hundred thousand jostling for a spot in the crossing. We spent well over an hour watching this amazing sight. In between crossing spurts we watched zebras grazing, giraffes feeding peacefully, got a fleeting look at a leopard, saw an African Fish Eagle, a Hamerkop, an Agama Lizard and the splendid Suberb Starling.

Day four, we game drove to Buffalo Springs Camp, after watching one more massive crossing. As we talked to other trekkers, they were amazed we had witnessed three crossings; they felt happy seeing one. Way to go Wilfred! One of the things we really appreciated at each camp was our arrival welcome. A hot wash cloth to refresh our faces and a cold fruit drink to re-hydrate always made our arrival special.

We learned that vultures feed on carcasses by the easiest means of entry. We witnessed the chief bird with his head well inside the wildebeest, digging for entrails. His partner is working on an eye socket. Eye sockets also provide an easy entry point.

Intermingled in all the wildebeest herds are nearly as many zebras. They travel well together and feed on the same grass. We now understand why these herds are called “nature’s lawn mowers.” They cut an enormous swath through the grass lands as they make their annual migration.

Two lions peacefully stayed near their kill and let us take pictures for several minutes while other vehicles came and went. At about 50 feet our first reaction was apprehension at being so close to these wild creatures, but as they remained peaceful we soon relaxed. It was not very hot, but both animals had a very high respiratory rate, about three times a human rate.

Day five; by now we are beginning to get jaded, the sight of another wildebeest herd does not create the frenzy of picture taking it did a couple days ago. A tribe of velvet monkeys let us pass. They are not spooked by our Land Cruiser, but Wilfred always kills the engine when we stop.

A sight we will never forget is a male lion eating his wildebeest kill. We were close enough to hear the bones crunch and the tearing sound of the flesh. How Wilfred spotted him is still amazing, we would never have seen him.

Back in camp we headed out on our foot game drive. We watched our guide start a fire using elephant dung to our amazement. We also used the Sandpaper leaf to smooth our fingernails as the Maasai do.

Day six was spent game driving south to Mbuzi Mawe Tented Lodge. As we skirted the side of a hill we came across a huge herd of zebras, in the thousands. This was the largest herd of just zebras that we saw on the entire trip. We checked them all to be sure each had a distinct pattern – just like no two snowflakes are the same. One was so soundly asleep in the road Wilfred almost had to use the horn to rouse him. From this high vantage point the landscape for miles was dotted with animals grazing. Amazing!

The Retina Hippo Pool was crowded with these large, docile looking animals. However, as Wilfred informed us, they are vicious if you invade their space. Although they are vegetarians, they will kill any other animal traversing their space. In fact, we understand they kill more people than any other beast of the jungle. Our cameras captured the sight, the sound but not the smell; as one of us said, “Don’t light a match!” with all the methane gas these vegetarians produce.

Tonight we were treated to a Maasai group singing and dancing to our delight. At breakfast the next morning, we had a large baboon look into the dining tent to see what was to eat. Fortunately, he was on the outside of the screen window looking in and soon moved on with the help of the staff.

Day seven; we were in search of cheetahs and leopards. A pair of cheetahs cooperated and posed for pictures within 15 feet of our vehicle. No long range pictures for them. We learned from Wilfred that leopards can carry twice their weight up a tree. The leopard we saw had a gazelle in the tree above his perch. While not twice his weight, it was definitely above him in the tree. He too cooperated in posing face on, or was he checking us out for his next meal? During our bush lunch break at Moru Kopjes we managed to get one more group photo near Gong Rock.

Days eight and nine were spent at Ngorongoro Crater. On our 6 AM game drive, Wilfred had to wake up the park attendant to let us in, but we were the first vehicle into the crater. We did see a couple of black rhinos, albeit from a very long way away. More lions, flamingos, wildebeest, cape buffalos, storks, gazelles, impalas, warthogs and a very pretty Grey-crowned Crane greeted us. We also had time to relax and read a book in the afternoon on our patio overlooking the crater. And let us not forget the dining room ambiance. In the evening we delighted at the Maasai entertainment.

On day ten heading to Tarangire NP we made a brief visit to the Fame Medical Center; soon to open as a hospital in Karatu. The Gustafson’s gave up their medical practice in California to work tirelessly over the past 6 years to open this medical facility, providing desperately needed health care to Tanzanians. They are gems!

For the first time since reaching Kogatende Airport, we were on a paved road heading to Tarangire NP and Swala Tented Camp – our most impressive tented camp. Our goal was to find the elusive tree climbing lions. Once more Wilfred came through for us. At one time we could see five lions in the tree; we watched a young one scamper up the tree without any difficulty. Apparently, as Wilfred informed us, this is a learned behavior only seen in this NP and we got to see it!

Day eleven, our last full game drive day included a stop by a large termite mound. Day twelve; homeward bound. What an amazing experience we had! ADS, as the kids would say, “You rock!” Thanks for a wonderful experience.

David and June Watson, Butch and Kay Raby, Robert and Mary Bicknell
Trip Dates: August 31st to September 12th 2012

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New Bush Reports Direct From Our Driver Guides

Exciting news from Tanzania! We will soon be announcing a new section of our popular ADS Blog which will allow our twenty plus driver-guides to post short reports including wildlife sightings, news and photos on a real time basis. This new forum will also allow guests to ask questions and interact with their favorite guide through the comments section at the bottom of each posting.

We kicked off this new project last week in Arusha with blog training classes. Currently, we have about a dozen digital cameras in operation that the guides can bring along to record any extraordinary wildlife sightings. If all go’s well during our initial test period over the next couple of months, we plan to add additional cameras and perhaps some video devices too!

Please let us know your comments and suggestions for improvement as we move forward with this very exciting project here at ADS. If you haven’t already done so, please join our facebook account as the guide posts will be syndicated onto our facebook page.

Stay tuned!

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And Sure Enough, Across They Started

First of all, we had a fantastic time, and our safari exceeded all expectations, for which we thank you and the rest of your team.

As you know, we flew to Amsterdam on the evening of August 15th and spent the nights of the 16th, 17th and 18th at the Hotel Kraznapolski right smack in the middle of the City, departing for Arusha on the 19th. And, are we glad we did. Not only did we enjoy immensely our visit to Amsterdam, which I had not visited in over 50 years, but we got over our jet lag quite easily and arrived in Arusha quite refreshed. I highly recommend that you advise future clients, who can afford both time and money, to do the same, as it really gave us a leg up on those who flew straight through and were quite fatigued for the first few days of their safari. I only wish we had done the same thing on our return, as the flight through Dar Es Salaam to Amsterdam, the six hour layover, and then the flight to JFK was interminable after departing Swala at 8:00AM.

The meet and greet was efficient, friendly and most helpful. Thanks for Room 602 at the Mount Meru Resort. The executive suite was certainly far more than we need for out first night and the few hours upon our return, but most welcome. A lovely view over the golf course.

I don’t know who selected our guide for us, but it was a stroke of genius. Francis Peter Powell guiding Peter Francis Ryan and Sara Barchilon took some real magical powers. And, Francis was wonderful, always on the lookout, with eyesight not to be believed. and, a most interesting man : well educated, well read, knowledgeable about anything we might encounter on the safari, knowledgeable about Tanzanian and East African history and politics, even up to date on the American political campaign.

Sally had seen the wildebeest migration and the river crossing when she had been in the Serengeti 5 years ago and we did not have any expectation of seeing it this time. But we did. We watched the herd for some time milling about on the other side of the river, sometimes going downriver and sometimes up, but clearly indecisive. So we gave up and headed slowly up river, pretty much following the progress of the animals on the other side of the river. Suddenly, the animals in the lead reversed position and started running rapidly downriver. We had seen them do this before, but we decided to follow one last time, and positioned the vehicle somewhat behind a tree on our side where we could watch what they were doing, but remain unobtrusive. And sure enough, across they started.

Francis called the guides for the other two ADS vehicles in the area to alert them, and we watched undisturbed for several minutes. Unfortunately, it seems that the drivers for other safari operators also listen in, as cars began to arrive from all directions. Soon there must have been at least 30 cars, many of which lined up right at the edge of the river bank, effectively blocking the progress of the wildebeests, who then interrupted their crossing. People were standing in their popups, and some were even standing on top of their vehicles. Many of the wildebeests who had arrived on our side of the river stopped and turned around to go back, apparently realizing that members of their families were missing.

Something should be done to enforce respect for the animals. I am sure the guides know better, but i think they should get some reminding about park etiquette.

We must have seen at least 50 lions – prides up to 17 members, animals eating a kill, lions with cubs, a lion treed by buffalo, lions mating, even elephants mating, which Francis said he had never seen before. This young fellow could not a quite get the job done, which Francis thought might have been because it was his second or third time around. Also, cheetah, leopards on the ground and in a tree, countless zebra and elephants, and the elusive rhino at some distance but clearly visible at a distance in the crater. I don’t think there could have been much we did not see.

All the camps were a success. Lamala River Camp the least, but we both liked the group dining, which I kinda missed at the others as I think we would have better enjoyed comparing experiences. Serena Lodge at the crater is delightful and most comfortable, and we followed your advice and were the first group to enter the crater the following morning.

Swala was truly exceptional in every way. We were in Tent #12 Impala at the very end, and what a treat. We were constantly surrounded with impala, zebra, the occasional elephant, birds galore. Liz and Garth were perfect hosts, especially Liz. One negative. We asked Francis about the accommodations and food for the guides, which he described as among the most meagre of the camps.

Thanks again for a superb safari.

Peter Ryan and Sara Barchilon
New York, NY
Trip Dates: August 19, 2012 to August 28, 2012

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There Is A Sense Of Pride From The Tanzanian People

From the first contact that I had with Lynn to the departure hug with our guide at the conclusion of our first safari the experience with ADS was exceptional and beyond our expectations. I had researched various companies and tours, but when I decided on ADS I was comfortable that we would be well taken care of, as Lynn had assured us we would be. Lynn never hesitated in promptly responding to questions and her thoroughness in providing information was immensely helpful, as we planned for one year this vacation of a lifetime.

That said, no amount of planning can adequately prepare you for what you experience when you immerse yourself into Africa and specifically Tanzania. I used the term “other worldly” several times during our 14 days on safari. What I meant was that there is a closeness you feel to nature and the animals as they watch you from such a close proximity. There is a sense of pride and a gentle spirit that you can feel from the Tanzanian people that is unlike anything you have probably experienced, regardless of how well traveled you might be.

From the moment we stepped off the airplane at Kilimanjaro airport we felt welcome. Lynn had assured us we would have nothing to worry about passing through the visa process and sure enough it was true. As others stood in long lines waiting to be processed, we were done. Our briefing at Mt Meru hotel by the ADS guide Matus was clear and most helpful even though we were pretty bleary eyed by then, having traveled on long flights just to arrive. Our guided tour through Arusha the next day introduced us to the life of the people of Tanzania. Need less to say there are many contrasts to the daily life, as experienced by residents of the western world.

The next day began our adventure in the bush as we flew over the Serengeti to meet our guide Omary with whom we would spend the rest of our time in Africa. From the moment we landed Omary greeted us and we came to enjoy and appreciate his ready smile and immense knowledge. It is said that your trip can be made or broken by the quality of your guide and I couldn’t agree more. Omary had an amazing ability to spot animals and birds. He would identify them for us and provide interesting information about the behavior of the particular breed.

Every day was not only interesting and educational, each day provided little surprises and delights. There was the humorous mating ritual of the ostrich and the day a group of female elephants circled the younger ones to protect them from us. The eldest female charged towards the vehicle. Omary’s respect for these animals was evident when he slowly backed the vehicle up to indicate to the anxious female elephant that we would pose no threat. She became immediately comfortable and turned back to join the herd. We always felt comfortable and well cared for and we couldn’t have been happier with our guide.

Several mornings we rose for several 6:15 sunrise departures on our game drive which allowed us to see such animals as the black rhino. We were the only vehicle for miles in the Ngorongoro Crater. In the Serengeti we were able to see a female cheetah sitting protectively on a termite mound with her two cubs surveying the landscape for any predators that might harm her young.

We went on a night game drive and observed the “hunt” with 17 female lions and 4 cubs as they stalked through the high grass. We sat in the vehicle silently, not 20 feet from three of the lions after they took down the Wildebeast. There was nothing more exhilarating than listening to the labored panting of the three lions as they sat over their kill!

I could go on and on but suffice it to say the days are constructed based upon our agreement with our guide; when we started the day and when you came in. That was not the same for other tours we observed. Many were the times my husband and I commented how fortunate we were as other vehicles would pass, crammed full of people jockeying for the ideal position for a photo. Similarly, we would watch other groups go out for a few hours only to return to camp after a half day and that was the extent of their game drive. Not so with us and we were the richer for it in safari experience.

Our last night in Tarangire National Park we climbed with a guide to the “top of the rock” as they call it and watched the sun set. What a beautiful and peaceful way to conclude a most magnificent safari before traveling back to Arusha for our departure.

Thank you ADS for making this adventure wonderful for us!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bill and Ginger Barthel
Knoxville, Tennessee
Trip Dates: September 5, 2012 to September 18, 2012

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Our Second African Dream Safari

Even before our first safari was over my husband and I had decided to return to the Serengeti and there was no question at all that we would go with Africa Dream Safaris. Naturally we were a little worried that a second safari to the same place might not be as great as the first trip, but we were so wrong! The ADS folks made sure we had our original guide, Wilfred.

This was an advantage since we had meshed so well on our first trip. He knew we would be first out of the lodge at 6 am and would not be back until whenever we had to be. We planned our second safari to cover areas of the Serengeti that we had not visited the first time.

We started with three days near the Mara River hoping to catch a crossing. It started out with one day of watching the wildebeests walk to the river, pause then walk away. Hmmm . this was a lot like last time!

However, bright and early the next morning we caught a wild crossing with the animals leaping off one steep river bank then climbing up the far side which had an impossible looking grade. Downstream we spied a rock covered with every possible scavenger waiting for whatever food swept past.

The next morning we watched a crossing that lasted for more than an hour. It is hard to describe the chaos of these crossings. The animals leap onto each other, crash into rocks, slip and slide as they all try to squeeze through the same narrow passage. It all seemed crazily impossible to get across this river until we spotted a herd of zebras a bit upstream choose an area of calmer water and lazily trot across. Smart zebras.

The Western Corridor was absolutely amazing. Though it was not supposed to be the prime time for this area, we were fortunate with the rains and had no problem with game sightings. We watched a pond of hippos challenging for dominance right next to a pool loaded with too many crocs to count. We spotted a crocodile eating an adult zebra and the size of his mouthful of teeth reminded us that this was indeed a prehistoric monster. There were ostrich families, ostriches mating as well as antelope fights and cheetahs hunting. We seldom saw another vehicle on the roads. Our lodge room even had its shower out on the deck so we could spot game as we washed up.

Our last two days were back on familiar turf in the Seronera area where we hoped to see the big cats in action. Almost immediately we followed a large pride of lions teaching their young to hunt and really not doing such a great job. Missed cornering the zebras at the water hole twice.

The last day was one of our most memorable. This may sound strange since it involved staying with a cheetah mom and her cubs all day long. We spotted them around 7 a.m. and Wilfred said she and the cubs were hungry and something would have to happen soon. We decided to wait and see. There was a second ADS truck on site so the drivers decided to switch out so we could see if there were anything else happening nearby. They would call each other if Mom started to hunt. We spent the time watching the cubs climb trees and play together. They nursed and napped while Mom kept a steady eye on the horizon.

I have to admit that by one o’clock I was ready to bail but my husband and Wilfred convinced me to give it another hour while we ate our lunch. Thank goodness they did because a herd of gazelles meandered by and things happened very quickly. We learned how fast a cheetah could move .WOW! Mom and babies were soon feasting. We stayed until a hyena moved in and claimed the carcass, stealing it away from the cheetahs as well as the waiting jackals and the buzzards circling above.

The safari was over too quickly. Regular days without game drives are not as much fun as wondering what is just around the next corner. We might need safari number three and I cannot think of a better group than Africa Dream Safaris to trust with the arrangements. I have to say that most evenings in the lodges we could overhear other groups talking about their day and seldom did anyone have the range of experiences we did. They are the best!

Chris and Terrence Campbell
Raleigh, North Carolina
Safari Dates: October 6, 2012 to October 14, 2012

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Well-done ADS!

We just returned from our first visit to Africa and it surpassed all of our expectations. From the planning of the trip with Dawn, all the way to our boarding the departure flight, we were amazed at the professionalism we experienced. Every detail was covered, including lots of surprises that only ADS customers experience.

We were blessed to have Pokea assigned as our driver/guide. There are not words to describe how special he made our trip. He seemed to always have us in exactly the right spot to get a good picture of the animals. Within 30 minutes of landing at the Mara River Air Strip, we were watching a river crossing. WOW, what an amazing site! Everyday was a little different, but he always managed to find something we hadn’t already seen. Only Pokea could pick a picnic spot under a tree where a leopard tortoise was resting.

Our main interest was seeing the big cats and cats he showed us. Cheetahs, on a kill, with cubs, single males and brothers. Lions, prides with male, female and cubs, black maned males, females with cubs and roaring lions. Leopards, in a tree with a kill, walking through a field, climbing a tree, and sitting on a rock.

If you are considering a safari, you should go with Africa Dream Safaris. One night at dinner in one of the tented camps, we found out how special being with ADS was. Pokea was eating with us and we were telling the others what a great guide he was. They were all part of a package deal through another company. They had some issues with one member of the group and it had been a real ordeal for them. On top of that, they had not had near the experiences we had, or the quality of guide. By the end of the meal, they were all asking Pokea questions. Questions they should have been able to ask their own guide, but maybe all guides aren’t equal? As the week wore on, it became apparent that very few companies get on the early morning action. In most cases, we found it first and had if for a long time before anyone else showed up, if they did at all. Everyday when we got into our land rover, we were the first to leave our camp. In most cases, that paid big dividends.

On the way out of the Ngorongoro area we visited FAME. They are doing some really great work there. If you decide to go to Africa, make this a part of your trip. You can read about it on the ADS site.

All in all it was truly a trip of a lifetime and one we will never forget!

The Harkey’s
Tobaccoville, North Carolina
September 2012

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