Posts From April 2009

Safari to Tanzania – April 2009

I have just returned from my most recent safari in Tanzania!  Re-energized and re-inspired by the abundant life and vibrant energy of the Serengeti, my head is still spinning with the vivid sights and sounds that rendered me breathless while I was there.  The purpose of my trip was two-fold.  First of all, I was in Tanzania for several business reasons.  But I think it is equally important to mention that I was also in Tanzania to actually be “on safari” and reconnect with my passion, the same passion that initially inspired me to embrace my current vocation with Africa Dream Safaris.  Each experience “in the bush” strengthens my ability and resolve to help my clients experience firsthand the magic that resides in this place.  After having been on safari several times now, the Serengeti has now become familiar to me.  Not in a boring or predictable way – quite the opposite, really.  The air is always loaded with excitement and anticipation of unknown events about to unfold!  But when I arrive to see the open Serengeti grasslands glittering in the sunlit breeze and feel the brilliance of the African sun against my face, there is a comfort that envelopes me, and it truly feels like coming home.  My morning arrival into the Serengeti airstrip was a smooth one.  As the small plane skidded to a stop on the dirt runway I could see a large herd of startled impala leaping gracefully in the opposite direction.  It was immediately obvious the rains had finally arrived in Seronera as indicated by the brilliant green carpet laid out before me.  Thank goodness the drought that had plagued the area for several weeks had finally come to an end, and the entire eco system seemed to be breathing a sigh of relief.  A kaleidoscope of different birdsongs sparkled in the air, as if to celebrate the new abundance of color and life. The green plains were peppered with trillions of white flowers and glinted with pools of rainwater that had collected from a shower the night before.  Everything was washed clean and seemed to be glistening with dew and sun.  Although it had obviously rained the night before, at that point there wasn’t a cloud left in that cornflower-blue sky.  My driver guide was there to meet me, and after exchanging warm greetings, we were off into the wilderness for our first game drive!  Less than ten minutes after leaving the airstrip, we found a female leopard in the grass.  The first glance of her spotted coat moving towards us through the grass could have easily been shadows and sunbeams playing tricks on our eyes.  But there was no denying this leopard’s presence as she leapt into plain sight in the middle of the road in front of us!  In one graceful bound she was off again, definitely moving with purpose.  We watched her trot silently into the distance, speechless at the sudden presence of such a graceful and powerful animal that had just been a few feet away.  The spell of the moment was broken when my guide suddenly exclaimed “Oh Dawn!  There’s another one!”  It couldn’t be.  Really?  My heart was pounding as I turned to see a massive male leopard striding confidently through the grass towards our vehicle, seeming to follow the tracks of the first.  This leopard seemed much larger than the first – he had a husky, muscular build and his neck seemed twice as thick and burly.  Instead of passing in front of our vehicle, this one passed just behind us.  It was mating season, and he was obviously in hot pursuit of the female we had just seen.  We took off to intersect the path of the two leopards where they were headed to cross a bend in the road.  We watched the female jump into a tree less than 15 feet from the road, and the male followed her, trapping her in the high branches of the tree with no escape route.  Teeth flashed and claws were unsheathed as the fur began to fly!  The female vocalized her disapproval with snarls and growls that would have intimidated the mightiest of beasts, and she held the male at bay.  After the drama played out for a while, the male finally seemed to give up and simply sprawled out on a high branch for a nap.  The female slunk down to a branch below the male.  She had escaped his trap and was finally free to go!  I expected her to immediately bound away and disappear.  But interestingly enough she didn’t take the opportunity.  Instead she settled onto a branch below the male and gazed up at him as if to say “aren’t you going to chase me now?”  It turns out she was just playing hard to get all along!  It was a comedic moment in the bush I will never forget.What a grand welcome to the Serengeti!  The rest of my safari was no less awesome or dramatic!  I witnessed thick herds of wildebeest and their tiny calves stampeding over the plains, noses pointed towards the billowing thunderheads that brewed a promise of more rain in the distance.  I saw two lionesses hunting, stalking low in the grass against a stream of approaching wildebeest, and then bringing down an individual animal with a sudden and effortless display of proficiency and grace.  I watched herds of zebra frolic in joyful abandon underneath piles of purple storm clouds, galloping away in mock fright at the low rumbles of thunder and flashes of light.  I held my breath as a “gang” of lions, over 16 individuals strong, padded confidently towards us in the middle of road, passing so closely that the tips of a few tails touched the side of our vehicle.  I felt my pulse quicken as an extremely defensive Cape buffalo bull mock-charged our vehicle from the distance, tossing his horns and snorting at us in defiance.  And there were the quiet moments too, equally as stunning.  Tiny lion cubs playing in the ethereal glow of morning sunlight.  Cheetahs gracefully stretching and grooming in the cool green grass.  Hundreds of zebra mares quietly tending to their young foals in the silence early morning.  An elephant family softly munching on acacia trees in the hushed twilight of evening.  A mother lion gently lifting her small cub by the nape of the neck to carry it safely through the rain.  Since I was camping, each night I was also able to listen to the sounds of the African night unfolding in the blackness outside my tent.  On my first night in the Serengeti, as well as several subsequent nights, I was privileged to hear the deep and throaty sonata of lions roaring in the distance (sometimes not all that distant!)  Other nights I listened breathless to the unsettling cackles and screams of hyenas milling in the darkness, right outside my tent!  And on one special night in particular, my tent was surrounded by the Great Migration, and I laid awake all night listening to the grunts and brays from a million individual wildebeest and zebra.  In spite of my certain lack of sleep from all the racket that particular night, I never once felt tired the next day!  The energy of the Serengeti kept me on a constant high and seemed to compensate any such fatigue.  On my way home from Tanzania I also got to stop by DeWildt, a cheetah rehabilitation, breeding and outreach/ public education facility.  Since cheetahs are my FAVORITE animal, this was quite a treat!  I also stopped by an elephant sanctuary and then also a breeding facility for white lions.  Being up close and personal with such beautiful animals was truly an amazing experience.  Now I’m back home, and anxious to get back into my work, which I also love.  I have decided that the only thing better than going on safari myself is the satisfaction I receive from helping other people have the experience.  To hear my clients’ stories and see their pictures when they return from a safari inTanzaniais a joy I don’t quite know how to describe.  With that being said, I look forward to hearing YOUR safari story – coming soon!

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Quote of the Week: Christine Smith

My trip with Africa Dream Safaris was exceptional. Our guide was fabulous and very knowledgeable about the animals, the eco-system and life in Africa in general. Even in the more crowded areas we were often by ourselves as we decided when to leave for an early morning game drive and when to head back in. One morning, we came upon two lionesses with 3 little cubs. The lions had just killed a wildebeest. We sat and watched the little family for over an hour until the lionesses dragged the kill away. Not another vehicle was in sight. The same situation happened when we sat and watched a leopard climb a tree next to our vehicle, two male cheetahs courting the same female and an elephant family with a new born calf. Again no other vehicles. It was amazing. We also loved the fact that it was our own private safari. We had plenty of room in the vehicle to move. The private luxury camps were fantastic and the camp staff was exceptional. I kept saying throughout the entire trip that this was the best vacation EVER!!!!!!

Christine Smith
April 2009

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Quote of the Week: Christine Smith

My trip with Africa Dream Safaris was exceptional. Our guide was fabulous and very knowledgeable about the animals, the eco-system and life in Africa in general. Even in the more crowded areas we were often by ourselves as we decided when to leave for an early morning game drive and when to head back in. One morning, we came upon two lionesses with 3 little cubs. The lions had just killed a wildebeest. We sat and watched the little family for over an hour until the lionesses dragged the kill away. Not another vehicle was in sight. The same situation happened when we sat and watched a leopard climb a tree next to our vehicle, two male cheetahs courting the same female and a elephant family with a new born calf. Again no other vehicles. It was amazing. We also loved the fact that it was our own private safari. We had plenty of room in the vehicle to move. The private luxury camps were fantastic and the camp staff was exceptional. I kept saying throughout the entire trip that this was the best vacation EVER!!!!!!

Christine Smith
April 2009

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April 26, 2009

The rains have diminished considerably but there have been a few showers over the last couple days. These scattered showers continue to keep the great herds of wildebeest, zebra and gazelle content to graze on the short grass plains of the Serengeti where there is plenty of potable water and fresh green grass.

The massive herd mentioned in our last post that had been dominating the landscape of the Eastern Plains has finally fragmented. There still remains a large herd in the East Serengeti between Gol Kopjes and Lemuta Hill but an equally large herd is has split off and is now ranging between Matiti and Kusini and out on the plains surrounding the Ndutu woodlands. We have reports of some fantastic wildebeest crossings at Lake Ndutu as well as great game viewing with one group of our clients that just returned from their african safari reporting 11 cheetah sightings at Ndutu and Hidden Valley, 2 cheetahs at Gol Kopjes and over 70 lions including lots of small cubs.

We estimate that based on the current standing water and grazing conditions in the Serengeti, the herds will remain at least 1 – 2 weeks longer out on the Southern and Eastern Serengeti Plains before they begin their much anticipated northward migration to the northern and western woodlands of the Serengeti. We are all eagerly awaiting the famous ‘Moru Crush’ where the wildebeest funnel through the narrow pass at Moru Kopjes in the Central Serengeti as they march off the plains on their way north to the woodlands.

Thanks again Joyce and Jeff Nott who have submitted another great african safari photo of that unusual double lion hunt and kill in the Central Serengeti pictured below.

Double Click on Image to Expand to Full Screen
Double Click on Image to Expand to Full Screen
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Quote of the Week: Dick and Marjie Tipton

Our first trip to East Africa was three years ago with a tour through National Geographic. This time we went with Africa Dream Safaris. The ADS experience was much better than what we experienced with NG. The four of us had our own Land Cruiser with a driver/guide. With [our guide’s] help we designed our own safari and did what we wanted, when we wanted, without worrying about other members of a tour […] We saw more animals and birds than we had ever dreamed of. The weather and company were great, the food delicious, the accommodations top-notch and the guide outstanding. We couldn’t have asked for more!!

To read Dick and Marjie’s full safari journal and photos, click here! http://dmtipton.blogspot.com/

Dick and Marjie Tipton
April 2009

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April 22, 2009

The wildebeest migration continues to be concentrated on the new grass growth areas of the Eastern Plains. There are large herds of wildebeest and gazelle stretching east from Naabi Hill to Gol Kopjes and even further to the extreme eastern edge of the Serengeti Ecosystem around Lemuta Hill and Nasera Rock. As promised in our last post, below are some recent pictures submitted by our very own Dawn Anderson who has just returned from the african safari field. Make sure to double click on the each photo to expand to full screen.

Double Click the Image to Expand to Full Screen
Double Click the Image to Expand to Full Screen

The wildebeest migration photo above was taken on April 10th in the Gol Kopjes of the Eastern Serengeti. CAN YOU SPOT THE SOLITARY ELAND IN THE PHOTO ABOVE? The lion shot below was taken on the small plain in front of Makoma Hill in the Seronera Valley of the Central Serengeti on April 7th.

Double Click the Image to Expand to Full Screen
Double Click the Image to Expand to Full Screen

The end of April is traditionally our slowest period for safaris here at Africa Dream Safaris before our peak season begins in early May. However, we are fortunate to have quite a few vehicles in the bush right now. Our clients out on their African Safaris are even more fortunate as the Serengeti, which is virtually empty of tourists at the moment, is providing phenomenal wildlife viewing opportunities including the great migration and all the attendant predators.

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Quote of the Week: Al and Alice Reich

This was our 3rd trip to Africa, but even so, it was unique. From the flight over Lengai at the start of our safari to the final overnight in the farmland of Karatu, it was fabulous. But even before that, we were met as we got off the flight from Amsterdam, had our visas taken care of, baggage collected, and on our way to the hotel while 95% of the other passengers were still waiting in line for immigrations. That was special. However, we came for the wildlife and were definitely not disappointed. The big five, thousands of wildebeest and zebra, about a zillion birds, and many other interesting creatures. It’s hard to describe being in the center of a noisy mass of animals stretching to the horizon in all directions. The best part, however, was that this was our own private safari. Only the two of us in that land cruiser with our guide. And what a guide he was. He led us to places where we could watch wildlife without seeing any other tourists.

Al and Alice Reich
April 2009

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April 12, 2009

There is an old adage in the Serengeti that “rain means game” and this couldn’t be more on point at this very moment. Over the last five days both the Southern and Eastern plains of the Serengeti have exploded with life as the thundershowers mentioned in our last post have continued and intensified. The vast herds of wildebeest, zebra and gazelle have finally marched out of their drought refuge in the Central Serengeti woodlands and onto the short grass plains. They are home at last!

Ernest Sitta, one of our most veteran guides with almost 2 decades of experience in the Serengeti, commented that he has never seen such a dramatic mini-migration of sorts as the hundreds of thousands of wildebeest that were previously scattered at the edge of the woodlands instantly descended in droves onto the plains when the overdue rains finally materialized. Our guests staying at our private luxury camp at Naabi Hill (located at the heart of the Serengeti plains) received quite a show yesterday as the plain surrounding the campsite was full of thousands of wildebeest and zebra. Unfortunately, everyone had trouble sleeping at night as the sounds of over 100,000 animals surrounding the tents was a bit overwhelming!

The migration is dispersed throughout the entire Southern and Eastern african safari plains now but the epicenter seems to be at Naabi Hill and the beautiful Gol Kopjes, which are just a few miles to the east of Naabi Hill. Just one week ago, the infamous Gol Kopjes were strangely dry and desolate for this time of year. We were very worried about our adopted lion pride that inhabits the territory around Gol Kopjes as two of the adult females were looking emaciated. What a turn of events this last week has been as this lion pride now has a significant chunk of the wildebeest and zebra migration right in its back yard. Yesterday, the lion pride was spotted clinging to the top of the kopjes looking out over a sea of wildebeest. We will post a few pictures in our next update.

Our migration map happens to be right on target at the moment. Click on the month of April at the left side of the map to see a pretty accurate illustration of the current distribution of the migration. Naabi Hill (mentioned above) is located right where the central, south and east Serengeti areas all meet.

For those lucky ones on a Tanzania safari right now or for those arriving in the next week or so, you have really hit the safari jackpot! Game viewing is truly phenomenal right now with the wildebeest migration on the plains and all the predators (lion, cheetah and spotted hyena) in attendance.

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Quote of the Week: Al and Alice Reich

This was our 3rd trip to Africa, but even so, it was unique. From the flight over Lengai at the start of our safari to the final overnight in the farmland of Karatu, it was fabulous. But even before that, we were met as we got off the flight from Amsterdam, had our visas taken care of, baggage collected, and on our way to the hotel while 95% of the other passengers were still waiting in line for immigrations. That was special. However, we came for the wildlife and were definitely not disappointed. The big five, thousands of wildebeest and zebra, about a zillion birds, and many other interesting creatures. It’s hard to describe being in the center of a noisy mass of animals stretching to the horizon in all directions.

The best part, however, was that this was our own private safari. Only the two of us in that land cruiser with our guide. And what a guide he was. He led us to places where we could watch wildlife without seeing any other tourists. The lodges and camps were superb. It was especially nice to be in the private luxury camp, where we could determine our own schedule for meals, bedtime and wakeup, etc. Mbuzi Mawe Tented Lodge was every bit as well equipped and appointed as any of the hotels. The service and food at Ndutu was top notch and the view from our room at Ngorongoro Serena couldn’t have been better. Bougainvillea Lodge was the perfect place to wind down after an exciting 2 weeks. And, of course, dining in the ‘African Bush’ was a distinct pleasure.

Al and Alice Reich
April 2009

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Quote of the Week: Bob and Vivian Bousquet

This was the most interesting and enjoyable trip we have taken. The folks at Africa Dream Safaris made sure every aspect of our safari was taken care of. From picking us up at the airport to dropping us off at the end, nothing was overlooked. We can’t say enough good things about everyone we came in contact with. Especially important was our driver guide. His ability to find and see animals borders on uncanny. [Our driver guide] looked after every need in a warm and enthusiastic manner. The accommodations and food were world class. We typically saw animals within minutes of leaving each day. The only problem we had was trying to fit in everything we wanted to do. We would recommend Africa Dream Safaris to anyone contemplating a trip to Tanzania. Especially, first time visitors who might be apprehensive about making a trip such as this.

Bob and Vivian Bousquet
April 2009

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April 8, 2009

The drought is over! On April 1st and 2nd there were quite a few scattered showers throughout the entire Seronera Valley in the Central Serengeti and even out to Sametu Kopjes at the beginning of the Eastern Plains.

Immense herds of wildebeest, numbering in the hundreds of thousands and spanning literally the entire horizon in thick black masses, flooded into Seronera Valley. What and incredible sight this was and one of our clients broke down in tears completely overwhelmed by the sheer power of the migration. To have this many wildebeest (and we’re talking hundreds of thousands) at the heart of the Central Serengeti is extremely unusual at the beginning of April.

As we say here at ADS that anytime is a great time for an african safari tour but right now seems especially good with the herds of wildebeest in Seronera interacting with the large resident lion prides. Thank You Joyce and Jeff Nott for sending in this incredible picture as evidence of this incredible phenomenon taking place right now in the Seronera Valley of the Central Serengeti.

Double Click the Image to Expand to Full Screen
Double Click the Image to Expand to Full Screen

Then, when it seemed things couldn’t possible get any better, they most certainly did. On April 6th the heavens really opened up and the first widespread rains of the entire green season finally hit the Serengeti (it even hailed in Seronera)! For the first time this green season, the rains finally spread out onto the short grass plains of the Eastern Serengeti at Barafu Kopjes, Lemuta Hill and Nasera Rock. This is the preferred grazing habitat of the wildebeest out on these short-grass, nutrient rich volcanic plains.

Within 24-hours, grasses that had lain dormant for months quickly sprouted and the wildebeest are now streaming out of the Central Serengeti and flooding onto these Eastern Plains which are now carpeted in fresh, green grass. What an incredible sight! Our game drives today out to the remote plains near Barafu Kopjes saw the first columns of wildebeest arriving to graze these nutritious pastures. Time will only tell but surely the rest of the migration will follow as long as the rain continues. This is green season game viewing at its finest!

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March 2009 Bush Report

The unusual drought (I think we can all no longer deny the inevitable use of this term) continues to persist in the Serengeti and most of the Tanzania Safari. Rain showers have been limited and widely scattered over the last 2 months. In fact, it seems the last decent amount of precipitation we received was way back in December. The brief rain showers received in mid March turned out not to be a signal of greener ‘things’ to come but rather just a few fleeting thundershowers.

As during all periods of low rainfall, the wildebeest respond instinctively by dispersing far and wide throughout the Serengeti Ecosystem. There just isn’t enough rainfall (as there usually is in March) and hence not enough green grass and potable water for the great herds to come together and unite on their traditional green season range on the southern and eastern Serengeti plains.

The good news is that the current dispersion of the wildebeest migration is located in very accessible areas throughout the Central and South Serengeti meaning that our guests have been inundated with wildebeest sightings over the course of their entire safaris and not just limited to the Southern/Eastern plains that we usually see during typical green season safaris.

The even better news is that the dispersion of the wildebeest especially in the Central Serengeti and Seronera Valley have meant great predatory action. Confused and scattered wildebeest in the Big Cat capital of Africa (Seronera) always equals action, pure and simple! And, reports have been flooding in from returning guests of both lion and cheetah hunts thought Seronera Valley.

The epicenter of the action at the moment in the Central Serengeti appears to be the Maasai Kopjes. In fact, just this yesterday morning, one of our groups witnessed an exciting cheetah kill with a mother and her four sub-adult cubs. About two weeks ago and also at the Maasai Kopjes, other guest witnessed several female lions taking down a wildebeest just feet from their vehicle. One group just returned with a great count of 62 lions, 30 cheetahs, 4 leopards and a ‘ton’ of wildebeest. Of course, we always stress quality sightings over quantity but needless to say these numbers are impressive.

In any event, the current ‘whereabouts’ of the migration are as follows:

Simiyu Ranger Post, which is located roughly 1/2 way between Moru Kopjes and Kusini Camp in the southwestern Serengeti. This seldom travelled track linking Moru and Simiyu is an ADS driver-guide favorite. As long as it’s relatively dry (the black cotton soil here can be treacherous in the rains), this track makes a great off the beaten path drive and is packed full of wildebeest at the moment.

Matiti – huge herds are being reported just southwest of Matiti and towards Makao. Access is about a 1-hour drive southwest of Ndutu deep within the southwestern Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Though unverified, it’s more then likely that these herds stretch into the inaccessible Masawa Game Reserve.

Simba Kopjes – Just yesterday we received reports of another big herd of wildebeest on the southwest side of Simba Kopjes near the hippo pool.

Moru Kopjes – A medium size herd has been located along the western flank of these beautiful kopjes.

Maasai Kopjes – Scattered herds have been reported throughout the Maasai Kopjes complex and especially at the marsh just south of the kopjes.

The one obvious area missing from all of our reports is the entire Eastern Serengeti, which in some green seasons plays host to the majority of the migration. This year has been extremely unusual in that the eastern plains have received very little or no rainfall. Many of the areas in the east that were so great last green season are completely barren this year. Everything east of Naabi Hill including such famous spots as Gol Kopjes, Barafu Kopjes, Lemuta Hill and Nasera Rock is very dry at the moment.

Serengeti map links below to help put the above locations in perspective:
http://www.africadreamsafaris.com/dest_serengeti.html

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